Canopy Anchors Away
With so many canopy anchors available, can't we just keep things simple? I was never really a big fan of Basal Anchors so, we’ll just hit on a couple of the basic canopy anchors that will help and benefit you the most.
Which anchor to choose?
First choice is going to be the simplest: the Alpine Butterfly canopy anchor. This is anchor here is basic and everyone should already be familiar with knowing how to tie an Alpine Butterfly. Let me cover something you will need to know before jumping around 4 different redirects, because let me save you some struggle: it will be a straight pain in the ass to retrieve!
Why will it be a pain, you might ask? Rope on rope friction, that's why! Upon retrieval, you’re pulling through said redirects and then when the Alpine gets low and to the point where the rope is deflected...that’s where you begin to struggle! I would not recommend going through any redirects with this technique unless you mod it a bit.
The Modified Alpine Butterfly
There are a couple of ways to modify this simple canopy anchor. First modification would be to involve a DMM Anchor Ring. Important rule right here; prior to sending your rope into the canopy, install the DMM Ring onto the rope and THEN send it! Now tie the Alpine Butterfly with the ring in it and continue to slip the working end through the ring instead of through the eye of the Alpine. With this modification, I’ve been able to successfully retrieve my system having dropped through two redirects. I did choose my route carefully though. If you do happen to forget the ring, don’t freak out. There is a solution. Tying the ring midline to the alpine is possible. Don’t believe me, just watch this video right here:
This does happen to be a fan favorite! Following the same steps as the modified alpine butterfly canopy anchor above, but instead of adding a ring you'll tie the alpine and slip the working end back to through the Alpine. Before sending this up, tie an additional alpine knot about a foot below the original Alpine. Install a carabiner and capture the working end with a Pinto Pulley. Now, you’ve set a Texas Tug!
What's the pulley for? Remember how I mentioned the deflection and the friction that happens? Well, the pulley helps "remove" some of that friction and allows for a smoother retrieval. If I know that I’ll need to be dropping through a redirect or two, this is something that I’ll set up and work from.
These Canopy Anchors are simple to set up and don’t require tons of gear. I find myself busting these style anchors on simple jobs and on those dead wooding jobs that I find the most joy in! Let us know which one of these you prefer, and climb safe!